I have been riding some of the routes outlined in the Guy Binsfeld publication “66 Itinéraires Cyclistes”: the orange loose-leaf book in their series that outlines walking and cycling routes within the Grand Duchy.
This autumn has been gorgeous for the cyclist, and so I decided this morning to link two routes together, both of them from the Mosel section of the book: those starting in Remich and Schengen. Starting off on a beautiful brisk autumnal morning, I crossed the bridge at Remich into Germany, joining the Schengen route half way along.
Here I turned south and followed the Mosel Radweg, which is traffic free and well signposted. I simply never tire of riding along this river, and this morning was no exception, as the sun broke to pick out the fabulous colours of autumn across the vineyards. You barely notice that you have passed into France along this route, the only real clue being that the “Mosel Radweg” has become the “Chemin de la Moselle”.
Riding for a while with the railway between you and the river, until, at Sierck-les-Bains where there is a terrible little waterlogged tunnel under the tracks. One ought not complain about any cycling infrastructure but this is pretty grim. I was just pleased that the huge SNCF freight train rolled passed just after I had been through it – your head must be only a couple of metres below the wheels. Helpfully some kind soul had thrown a log into the deep puddle at the end, to enable my feet to remain mostly dry.
You are, however, rewarded with a lovely view once through: a view around the bend of the river towards La Klentsch.
Continuing round this bend, with the aforementioned freight train thundering above me to the left, I found this to be a glorious section, making me glad to be alive and even gladder still to be awheel.
Crossing the river shortly afterwards and turning back north I met one of the all too frequent “route barrée” signs and – like Tatiana before me, I chose to ignore it – the only result being a delightfully car-free ride along the road to Schengen. Here I had a quick look at the monument recording the “Schengen Agreement”, the importance of which is not only symbolical but also practical as it allows freedom of movement to the citizens of countries wise enough to sign up.
The advised route now took me away from the river and along a rather unpleasant road, which feeds the A13 motorway. Once past this junction, however, the road led me through a series of delightful villages before re-joining the river and back into Remich.
I swiftly switched maps to the Remich ride and continued north along the Moselle, passing the Paul Eyschen monument and finally turning upwards and away from the water at Hëttermillen up to Greiveldange. This is a certainly an uphill section, but by no means too demanding. Finding my way through the village (do trust the directions set out – even if it seems you must have missed the turning) I found this climb a little more trying. Once at the top of this very quiet road, though, there is a lovely view behind towards Germany and forwards towards the Briedemesser Bësch, looking sumptuous in its autumn colours.
From here it is a lovely coast downhill to Bous, where a nasty little roundabout has to be negotiated. Shortly afterwards, on the left turn towards Erpeldange, there is yet another “route barrée” sign that can be safely ignored by the cyclist. I have found that the “66 Itinéraires Cyclistes” often use too many roads I would rather ignore, and this section up to Ellange was a bit of a drag, to be honest.
[Photo 07] Pausing only for a quick natter with some stray chickens in Ellange, however, the national Piste Cyclable 7 “Jangeli” is soon reached.
I have ridden this delightful old railway line many times. Today the concern the fallen leaves created in making the route greasy under-wheel is more than made up for the vividness and beauty of their colours.
Thus a delightful morning’s ride is brought to a close with that familiar, exhilarating and euphoric descent into Remich.